Become a Flasher

Many people use a flash when they take a photo in subdued light. The more experienced photographers might attempt to use a flash to get the photo or to set a mood. Generally a longer time is required to set up for a mood but either way can work. The method is totally up to the person taking the photo.

Below I'll basically explain how to use a flash for lighting and to a small degree, get a mood or emotion for the photo.

*Please remember, You might call them a flash,a strobe, a speed light, a remote, or whatever since there are many names and ways to use to use a flash. This article will not cover everything as it is only meant to be a basic guide.

Cellphones and early model DSLR's have a mini flash built in the body called an on camera flash.

Depending on the camera, a small button or menu selection would operate the flash. Separate units mounted on the hot shoe of the camera, are also considered an on-camera flash.

For units not initially built to be a remote flash, you can connect an optical trigger to them and achieve the same results as long as your not to far away. When you direct the initial light towards a remote unit, generally ten feet or less to work properly. A true remote flash has an optical light receiver already built in it so you won't need to purchase a separate optical unit.

Hot Shoe

Whether it is an on or off camera flash, it's light output can be used to fire another flash. This is where most photographers switch to a transmitter, (which slides on the camera's hot shoe), and receiver, (which slides on the separate flash unit). The flash can then be placed further away and does not need be lined up as would be for an optical unit. The majority of transmitter units will work fine from 50 to 100 feet away although there are some the can work up to one half mile away and some can be combined to work further.

When used properly, off camera flashes let you fill in darker areas. You'll find shadows adds to the three dimensional look of the photo. Unless positioned properly, a standard on-camera flash tends to remove much of the shadow and that can remove much of the mood.

Most photographers do not have studio strobes. Those normally have more light power than a camera flash but they are larger and should be mounted on a tripod or at least have an assistant physically hold them. A lot of worry about people tripping on the wires made many look for something better. A transmitter/receiver set was the obvious safety answer. Before the transmitter/receiver system was common, studio strobes used an electric wire to signal when to flash. Some still have this connection still other models have a receiver built into them.

With any flash or strobe, it is common practice to “bounce” the light. This is done by directing the light at a the ceiling, wall, building siding, or whatever else you feel would work well for your need.

An automatic flash setting often works fine although I have found by using the manual flash setting, I had more control. The light can replicate the sun, or maybe light from a window. Colors can added for an emotional feeling or to set a mood. In my early days I've even used a standard bed sheets to add a color for an emotional feeling in a photograph.

When taking an outside photo, and some inside photos, you might need to experiment a little by setting the flash output at a different power. Just remember that it is often needed to set everything for the background first then modify the flash output to lighten the subject to your desire. It's really up to you.